The carps of Hoàng Su Phì’s rice paddies

In Viet Nam, those living in the plains know of and are fascinated by the Northwestern highlands and Hoàng Su Phì district in Hà Giang province for their renowned and stunning terraced rice paddy fields. Not many people know however, that when the rice has all been harvested and the golden season comes to an end, the fields here are known for another purpose – fish farming, particularly the harvesting of freshwater carp.

Freshwater carp are usually released at the beginning of the season when rice is first planted. The fish would then grow during the 3-month season, feeding upon the young rice grains. At the end of the harvest, the owner of the terraced field would normally create small hand-sized trenches in the terraces. As the water in the field gradually recedes after the harvest, it would gather up into the trenches, carrying along with the flow all the carp, now fully grown and plump, also ready for harvest. For the people of Hoàng Su Phì district, these rice-paddy-grown carp are a local culinary delight come each Autumn season.

When one comes to Hoàng Su Phì district during the rice harvest season (around August to October), rice-paddy carp is an indispensable dish in the local menu offer. To prepare this delicious dish, the simplest and fastest method is deep frying.

The carp here are not thin and long like the typical freshwater carp but owes its short, plump and stocky features due to the distinct characteristics of being farmed in rice paddy fields and low-surface water.

The fish is left intact and no descaling or further processing is needed before being dipped straight into the oil pan, where its golden, crispy scales soon emerge, promising a crunchy and savory delight for the palate, paired with a good rice wine at the dining table.

As the carp is cooked fresh and intact, enjoying the slight bitterness of its intestines also adds to the complete marriage of tastes on the palate. It is no wonder that on the local dining table in Hoàng Su Phì during the rice and carp harvest season, the deep-fried carp is usually the dish be emptied the quickest.

Even at the local wet market called Vinh Quang that takes place each early Sunday, the carp quickly make their way to the shoppers’ baskets and bags and are sold out shortly they even reach the market. As the harvest season nears the end, there are more fish. The Hoàng Su Phì people would connect the carp into chains and smoke or sun-dry them, allowing the fish to be enjoyed for longer. Carp ‘processed’ in this way have another distinctive taste and appeal.